Visiwa is a company specializing in island and lighthouse vacations. They are currently running a survey and invite you to participate.

One of the submitters wins a 2-night stay for 4 people at a Croatian lighthouse.

To take the survey and qualify for the prize, click here.

Good luck!

We’re pleased to announce “Kystens Katedraler – Coastal cathedrals: A journey on the edge of Norway” exhibit by Sigrid Thorbjørnsen Photography at Hurtigruten Terminal Bergen, Norway, May 5 – June 30.

This is a Lighthouses of Norway initiative sponsored by Hurtigruten. Please help us spread the word. We’re so excited about this, and a big thanks to everyone who’s worked so hard to make this exhibit a reality.

May 5 at 4PM until June 30 at 8PM

Hurtigruten Terminal
Nøstegaten 30
5010 Bergen, Norway

Hurtigruten turns 120 years and invites you to the celebration. Welcome to the opening of ‘Kystens katedraler’, May 5 at 4PM. Hans Rood, Hurtigruten’s director of sales will be present, and Sigrid Thorbjørnsen, the photographer, will tell us about the stories behind the exhibit.

Hurtigruten invites to open ship on board MS Trollfjord with coffee and cake buffet. At 5PM there will be a guided tour to see the ship and the art on board.

This exhibit is an initiative of Lighthouses of Norway (Holtermann Design LLC), and Hurtigruten.

Join Lighthouses of Norway on Facebook. See invitation on Facebook. See invitation and RSVP on Hurtigruten’s website.

Vis større kart

KYSTENS KATEDRALER, EN REISE PÅ KANTEN AV LANDET (in Norwegian)

HVORDAN DET HELE STARTET

New York City er en by jeg tilbringer mye tid i. Og i New York City, ble jeg kjent med nordmannen Michael Holtermann, mannen bak Holtermann Design. Det er mange år siden han sist bodde i Norge, men uansett hvor langt vekke han var fra Norges kyst, hadde hans kjærlighet til de mange fyrtårn i Norge ikke minsket. Han var fremdeles fasinert av arkitekturen, betydningen og kulturen som fulgte kystens katedraler. Denne fasinasjonen drev ham til å skape  websiden www.lighthousesofnorway.com. Denne websiden er til stor glede for mennesker i Norge, men også for fyrentusiaster verden rundt.

BEGYNNELSEN PÅ MIN REISE

Akkyrat da, mens jeg satt i East Village på Manhattan, begynte en lengsel å gro hos meg også. Søken etter horisonten, til det punktet hvor havet møter himmelen, de ramsalte bølgene, sveipene fra de mange fyr. Lengselen etter å høre vinde viske. Rope. Brøle. Jeg ville sitte der de satt, de som i mange år holdt orden på et av kystens største navigasjonsinstrument. De menneskene som gjennom stormer og uvær, tåke og natten sørget for at skip og båter kom seg vel avgårde eller trygt hjem. Dette folket, fyrfolket, hadde i 350 år holdt lyktene tent langs hele Norges langstrakte kyst. Dette folket som i senere tid meldte været, og som kjente været på kroppen mere enn andre. Dette folket som nå har gått i land.

Mitt ønske var kanskje en smule mere preget av eventyrlyst, enn de som engang bodde på fyrene. Bøkene skrevet om fyrlivet og loggbøkene, beskriver ikke livet til en fyrvokter som en dans på roser. Det blir heller beskrevet som en tango i bjørnebærbusker.

Jeg hadde et ønske om å bo i samme hus. Ha den samme utstikten. Bli utsatt for samme vær. Være stille og bli lang i blikket. Se skipene seile forbi og inn i horisonten, til der blikket ikke lenger kan følge. Dette var veldig langt fra det livet jeg selv var vant med. Etter 18 år i Oslo og 5 år med pendling til New York, var dette en smule liten annerledes.

EN REISE I MITT EGET

Jeg startet med å sende eposter til de forskjellige fyrlagene og gruppene som drev med utleie og vedlikehold av fyr. Jeg sendte epost til fyr fra Kjeungskjær til Homborsund. Jeg ønsket å besøke fyrene, ta bilder og skrive om oppholdet.  Og til min glede, fikk jeg svar fra alle jeg hadde skrevet til. Noen kunne dessverre ikke ta imot meg, på grunn av all skade som fyret hadde tatt etter at Dagmar herjet i 2011. Men jeg fikk mange tilbakemeldinger på at jeg var hjertlig velkommen. Fyrene som nå lå i tabellen min var: Kjeungskjær, Kråkenes, Ulvesund, Molja, Slåtterøy, Ryvarden, Ryvingen, Grønningen, Geitungen, Obrestad, Lista, Lindesnes, Songvaar, Oksøy og Homborsund. Alle artiklene gikk inn til www.lighthousesofnorway.com, som Michael hadde startet september 2011.

Og med friskt mot begynte jeg å reise Norge på kryss og tvers. Siden jeg ikke har sertifikatet, ble det buss, ferger, hurtigbåter, Hurtigruten, helikoter og NSB som ble mine hovedtransporter. Jeg har reist mye rundt i verden, og aldri trodde jeg skulle sette så pris på å reise rundt i mitt eget land. For et majestetisk land jeg har vokst opp i. Ikke bare fjell og fjord, men daler, bukter, brygger, byer, øyer, vidder, heier og holmer. Jeg fikk servert alt fra steikende sol, til full storm, regn, haggel, vilnd, sne, kulde og varme. Alt på en uke!

TUREN MED HURTIGRUTEN

Jeg fikk muligheten til å reise med Hurtigruten fra Bergen til Kirkenes. Dette strekket av Norges kyst hadde jeg ikke opplevd tidligere. Jeg hadde selvfølgelig sett bildene på TV, internett og reklame, men ikke med mine egne øyne. Denne reisen gjorde meg enda mere bevisst på hva fyrene langs kysten har betydd. Dette fantstiske navigasjonsinstrumentet som har blinket i de 120årene som Hurtigruten har tatt seg fram til folk i den nordlige delen av landet. Hurtigruten var og er en hovedpulsåren og et bindeleddet mellom flere øysamfunn og land, mellom familier og forretninger, og har betydd alt for de som har bodd og som bor i disse avsidesliggende strøkene. Min fasinasjon for fyrene, “Kystens Katedraler” som de blir kalt, bare vokser. Jo lengre nord jeg kommer, dess mere vokser denne fasinasjonen. Denne organisasjonen av fyr langs vår langstrakte kyst, med dette ene felles mål. Det å gjøre leia til trygg ferdsel.

FLERE FYRBESØK

Først og fremst har jeg, i denne runden, besøkt fyr som jeg har hatt kjennskap til. Fyr i mitt eget distrikt. I min del av landet. Jeg vokste opp i Kristiansand, og har alltid tenkt at Oksøy var hovedfyret i Kristiansand. Fyret med sveip. Med Grønningen på den andre siden av leia, var båtene sikre på at de kom seg trygt i havn i Kristiansand. Men ikke før jeg møtte Michael i New York, skjønte jeg hvor mye fyrene har betydd. For innseiling og utseiling, for hele skipsfarten, losene, fiskerne, tryggheten på sjøen. Ikke bare fyrene i seg selv, men også fyrfolket. Folket med de lange blikk mot horisonten, de som speider etter båter og vær. De som leser himmelen og hører på vinden.

UTSTILLINGEN “Kystens Katedraler”

Ute ved havet, tømmes hodet for mørke tanker og lager rom for å skape. En av ideene var å ikke bare ta bilder av fyrene, men også landskapet rundt fyret. Etter hvert som jeg reiste ut til forskjellige fyrene, så jeg hvor forskjellig alt  var fra sted til sted. Joda, det var noen fellesnevnere …. Alle fyr lå ved havet og var konstant innrammet av salte bølger, skrikende måker og mye vær. Men formen på landet var forskjellig. Svaberg. Fjellvegger. Steinartene var forskjellige. Mønstrene etter den siste istiden var forskjellige. Vindretningen trærne vokste i. Arkitekturen på fyrene. Hvert fyr var unikt, og områdene rundt hvert fyr var også spesielt. Jeg skulle nesten tro at etter å ha reist rundt på forskjellige fyr, så ville de fleste ende opp med å være like. Men det motsatte skjedde. Forskjellen ble veldig tydelig. Denne tydeligheten gav meg en inpirasjon til å lage en foto serie. Ikke en vanlig fotoserie. En serie bilder som viser fyret sammensmeltet med sin omgivelse. Flere fotografier lag på lag. Lag på lag som historien selv. Som havsaltet på knausene. Sveipene fra fyret. Alt som vokser og gror i dette karrige landskap.

I 2012 fikk jeg den ære av å ha sommerutstillingen på Utsira Fyrgalleri. Der stilte jeg ut bilder av Utsira fyr og miljøet rundt fyret. Lag på lag. Denne utstillingen var begynnelsen til noe større.  Begynnelsen på en ferd som tok meg med rundt i Norges land. Det var begynnelsen på en større forståelse av fyrkulturen, dets arkitektur og kultur.  Det var begynnelsen på utstillingen “Kystens Katedraler” . Denne utstillingen som ble unnfanget der sjelen møtte roen, helt ytterst i havgapet.

ALENE, MEN ALDRI ENSOM

Ja, det finnes verre ting enn å være alene, men ofte tar det et helt liv å komme fram til en slik erkjennelse, og når en endelig gjør det, er det for sent, og ingenting er verre enn for sent ….” – Charles Bukowski

Jeg er glad det ikke har tatt meg hele livet å komme fram til dette. Denne reisen er gjort med meg selv som selskap. Men på denne reisen har jeg aldri følt meg ensom. Jeg har møtt så mange fantastiske mennesker. Mennesker som fremdeles kan kunsten å vente på buss. Som vet hvordan man venter på en forsinket ferge. Som ikke kjører når de skal, men venter på korresponderende fartøyer, for at alle skal komme dit de vil, men kanskje 5 minutter senere enn planlagt. Disse vidunderlige menneskene som sier “det ordner seg vel”, og på en magisk måte, å ordner det seg. Disse individene har gitt meg troen på mennesket. Ved Kystens Katedraler har jeg møtt samaritanere, engler, hjelpere og ikke rent få helgener. Selv når jeg ikke har hatt mennesker rundt meg, har jeg ikke vært ensom. Jeg har fått litt av den roen fyrfolket hadde. Den roen som ikke forlanger ord, men tanker. De tankene som kommer er de som flyr, ikke tankene som knuser.

Å være eventyrer i eget land er helt fantastisk. Jeg ser litt tydligere hvem jeg er og hvor jeg kommer fra. Det beste med denne reisen, er at den ikke er over.

• It is accessible only by boat. The site is open and there is restaurant which operates from late June through early August (May 1 through September 1 for group reservations).
• The owner is the Risør Kommune.
• The lighthouse was built in 1855. It stands 29.8 feet (9.1 meters) tall and 34 feet (10.4 meters) above the high tide level.
• The lighthouse was deactivated in 1959 when its longtime keeper retired. The current active light was installed in front of the building. The old lighthouse was later transferred to Risør Kommune, which leases it as a restaurant. In addition, a music festival is held at the lighthouse in late July. Site manager: Stangholmen Fyr.

Risør
, the town of white wooden houses

Risør is a beautiful and picturesque town. It was already an important harbor in the 1500s because of its particularly well-sheltered position just off Skagerrak. The place-name Risør means ”the scrub-covered isles,” and originally referred to the small islands outside of town. Large amounts of logs from the hinterland were floated to sea here. The annual Risør Wooden Boat Festival in August is hugely popular. Read more about it.

Stangholmen Contact

• Tel.: +47 37 15 24 60
• Email: eikeland@stangholmen.no

• Website
• Stangholmen does not offer accommodation at the lighthouse, but recommends Risør Hotel located on Risør’s waterfront www.risorhotel.no

Stangholmen Fyr Restaurant

• The restaurant is open to the public from June 22 to August 5
 and welcomes groups from May 1 to October 1
• There are boats from the city every half hour.
• There is outdoor seating with great views of Risør
• Reservations: Tel: +47 34 15 00:50 or +47 900 93 400

Gardening on Stangholmen

As on many island lighthouses, Stangholmen’s keepers did an amazing job of growing plants for both food and for aesthetic reasons. From around 1900, the Andersen family, lighthouse keeper and his wife, lived here with her six children (three of whom were sailors). The family kept both a kitchen and fruit garden, and also kept cattle and poultry. The island consists mostly of bare rock but there are  some garden patches where vegetables could be grown. The soil in the garden was mostly ballast from returning ships..

The lighthouse keeper Jens Thaarup Johnsen was unusually fond of flowers and the gardens were built in terraces up from the wharf . There was an arbor overgrown with ivy, gooseberry bushes, peonies, auriculas, some extremely hardy white roses. and a very unusual decorative thistle. Bulb flowers thrived in many places on the island. During one summer in the 1930s, a large number of narcissus  from the island were delivered for sale in Risør! Besides the daffodils there are blue scilla, a pear, and berry bushes. Remains of the gardens and farmland are still evident on the island.

View Larger Map

In 2005, Steigen municipality undertook the management of lighthouse, and in 2006 the Directorate for Nature Management gave the municipality NOK1.3 million for the operation and maintenance of the lighthouse. The money has and is being used be by the newly founded association Venner av Flatøy fyr (Friends of Flatøy Lighthouse).  The group’s plan included restoring the lighthouse – now largely done – and making it available to the public.

Flatøy Lighthouse is in a great area for sea-based outdoor recreation and outdoor teaching related to the marine environment. The station is protected under the Heritage Act. Store Flatøy is hilly, but with some flatter sections. There is typical heath heath vegetation, and the area supports both otters and nesting eagles. Some years have bumper crops cloudberry—which Norwegians love.

Venner av Flatøy fyr (Friends of Flatøy Lighthouse)

Flatøy lighthouse is refurbished and adapted for overnight stays. (Editor’s note: we are currently attempting to get more specific information on this.) The group has installed a pontoon to facilitate landing access to the island. The use of the island is expected to increase. Friends of Flatøy Lighthouse put in lots of time restoring the lighthouse. See a video.

Contact

• Contact person: Greta V. Sollie
• Tel., +47 757 77932
• Tel., +47 952 77180
• E-post: gre-soll@online.no

See larger map

When I woke up in the morning it was pouring rain, or, this is more correct, it was raining sideways. The wind was so strong and the waves were huge. I thought this would be a day of work inside. I was wrong. More wind came and blowed away the rainy clouds and brought out the sun. This gave me the opportunity two take the wonderful walk along the ocean from Obrestad Lighthouse to Hå Old Vicarage (Hå Gamle Prestegård).

Walking from the lighthouse, I looked east and west, and saw waves everywhere. The strangest thing, though … no matter how close I came to the ocean, I could not smell it. The smell of agriculture was so strong it totally blocked the smell of the ocean. When the wind turned, there was no smell of agriculture at all, only of the ocean, and it kept on switching like this all the time – kind of confusing but also kind of fun.

The sound of the wind and the waves crushing into stones is very loud. The intensity of the sound of nature is like Manhattan traffic. What you see, though, is nothing like Manhattan at all. My thoughts are drifting. My urge for coffee keeps me going. More waves. More stones in the ocean. Now I notice a peculiar stone. It looks like an egg cracked in the middle. Very strange, and utterly beautiful.

After having walked slowly and captured many photos, I arrive at Hå Old Vicarage. The vicarage dates back to 1637. It was renovated in the 1980s and is now housing a café and exhibition spaces. In the café they sell local baked goods, coffee, and art. I ordered lunch and sat down. This place has a great atmosphere. I am enjoying the view, the lunch, and the wind.

For all posts about Obrestad Lighthouse, click here.

During my stay at the lighthouse, a class of 10th-graders from Blomdalen School at Mandal came visiting. After having been by myself for a couple of days, I was excited to see how it would impact my stay, with so many youngsters in the house.

I watched as the boat docked, and a swarm of enthusiastic youngsters rushed ashore. They came running, bursting with energy, up the road to the lighthouse. The first ones to arrive must have sprinted the whole way up. From having run in strong wind and rain, the kids were soaked to the skin –  but I don’t think they even noticed. They were waiting for the rest of the class to come up. And then came all … boys, girls, and three adults. Their energy was already present and I was excited. So many young adults at one place could lead to trouble ….

“Too many of today’s children have straight teeth and crooked morals,” a high school principal once said.

This did not apply to these kids. I was pleasantly surprised to see them all being so willing and eager to help, include everyone in everything they did, conduct all chores without complaining or showing bad attitudes. Everyone helped with everything. No slackers.

When they later went swimming, all of them came along. Not as a quiet crowd, mind you, but rather one, jumping and running horde. The energy seemed to be top. Not everybody jumped into the ocean, after all, the sea temperature was about 13 C, but, they were all together near the water.

The most amazing thing I noticed was that they obeyed the adults. No sour faces or arguments, but more like “okay, we’re listening, and it’s for our own good.”

This will probably be a trip the kids will not forget. And what a wonderful place to get the class spirit working. Given the opportunity and the right environment, kids show that they do care about each other and that they are a living part of their cultural heritage. On an island in the ocean, at a lighthouse, in a community, they shared memories.

What a lovely bunch. Now, I know that the future of Mandal is in safe hands.

A different kind of lighthouse keepers

Ryvingen is also a safe haven for a different group of kids. Not everyone is as energetic and handles everyday life and school as well as this visiting class I saw.

For kids who have problems adapting to school, have learning disabilities or other challenges, there is a special lighthouse program. This program is designed to help prevent teenagers from dropping out of school by giving them a hands-on opportunity to work at Ryvingen, get out and make a difference, and therefore help maintain one of Mandal’s cultural heritages. If it wasn’t for those kids, the fences, main house, and other buildings would not look this awesome at all times. These kids makes a formidable effort at Ryvingen and should be given due credit for some of the skillful upkeep and maintainance.

Ryvingen is a lighthouse that shows the way – in many ways. Since 1867, the lighthouse has lead the way for boats of ships. Today, it also helps navigate youth on their way.

Benjamin Franklin once said that “lighthouses are more helpful than churches.” I will not claim neither one nor the other, but, that lighthouses play an important role, on several levels, is without a doubt.

Do you agree? Let us know.

The lighthouse is located approximately on the island’s center. Actually, there are two white lighthouses — one old and one new. Only the newer is in use today. The lighthouses are area landmakrs and can be seen from all sides. The station also consists of the two towers, residential assistant and other homes and outbuildings grouped around a courtyard. The lighthouse  is protected under the Cultural Heritage Act.

Jomfruland Island

Jomfruland is a low, small elongated  island off the mouth of the Kragerøfjord. It is a glacial moraine.  It measures about 4.6 mile by .6 mile (7.5 km by 1 km) by 1 km. Jomfruland provides shelter to the many islands of the Kragerø archipelago from the Skagerak seas. The island is popular as a summer resort and as a birding destination. The outer shore of the island consists of smooth stones and boulders, while the inner shore has sandy beaches along its entire length.

Access to Jomfruland is by water taxi, car ferry, or by private boat. Ferries make regular daily trips between it and the mainland. The island has several guest harbors. The island has various attractions, including splendid beaches, developed docks with restaurant and kiosk facilities, rolling stone beaches on the island’s north side, as well as good hiking possibilities for tourists and residents alike.

In Fyrhagen, there are summer concerts, “Under Two Ttowers.” Many famous musicians and artists have performed here. Program for this year’s concerts can be seen here.

Tårnbrygga, the wharf nearest the lighthouses, is the center of many attractions and the usual starting point for visitors’ tours. The surroundings of the nearby Haga Inn are well-suited for outdoor activities and recreation, while the sandy beach with its gradual and shallow slope is a perfect place for families with children. A marked and handicap-friendly nature/culture trail out to the Lighthouse Pond (Tårntjerna) starts in the leafy forests close by.

Plant and animal life

A favourable climate and lush vegetation have attracted a great variety of birds, More than 300 species having been spotted. Jomfruland Bird Station (Jomfruland Fuglestasjon) is a facility run by the Telemark chapter of the Norwegian Ornithological Society. The station which was established in 1969 is located at Øitangen on the northern peak of the island. Much of the bird migration each spring and autumn follows the coastline and passes by the island’s northern peak. From March through November the stations is manned continuously

Species seen here include the Barred Warbler, a regular at Jomfruland, perhaps being the only location in Norway where this bird breeds. Also Thrush Nightingale, Common Rosefinch and Red-backed Shrike are regular breeding species, Stock Pigeon, Northern Shoveler and Barnacle Goose (the latter two on nearby islands). A vast number of birds breed on islets and skerries around Jomfruland, one of these being the Black Guillemot.

The old lighthouse

Built in 1839 and inactive since 1938. 72 feet (22 mt) round brick tower with gallery, painted white, lantern removed. Weather instruments and a communications antenna are mounted on the capped tower. The old tower now houses a lighthouse museum, and the adjoining keeper’s house is an art gallery. During the summer, open-air concerts are held on the grounds of the station.The tower is open during the summer. From the top there are great views over large parts of the island and the archipelago around. When built, it was equipped with a foghorn, Norway’s first mechanical foghorn.

The new lighthouse

Round cast iron tower with lantern and gallery. 2nd order Fresnel lens in use. Lighthouse painted white, lantern dome red. The light guides ships approaching the Kragerøfjord and Kragerø; the continuous light also aids ships sailing toward Oslo.The tower closed.

See larger map

Apocalyptica is a Finnish rock band from Helsinki, Finland, formed in 1993. The band is composed of classically trained cellists Eicca Toppinen, Paavo Lötjönen, and Perttu Kivilaakso (all three of whom are graduates of the Sibelius Academy in Helsinki) and drummer Mikko Sirén.

Originally a Metallica tribute band, their music borrows elements from a wide variety of genres including classical music, neoclassical metal, speed metal, alternative metal, post-grunge, hard rock, progressive metal, thrash metal and symphonic metal. They also incorporate some influences from Middle Eastern music, world music and folk music. They have sold over four million albums.

The Sailor (translation)

Come into my boat
A storm is rising and night is falling
Where are you going?
All alone you’re drifting off
Who’s going to hold your hand
When it’s pulling you down under

Where are you going?
The cold sea is shoreless.
Come into my boat
The autumn wind keeps the sails taut.

Now you’re standing there by the lantern
With tears in your face
Daylight falls aside
The autumn wind sweeps the street empty

Now you’re standing there by the lantern
Got tears in your face
Evening light chases the shadows away
Time’s standing still and autumn’s falling

Come into my boat
The longing becomes the steersman
Come into my boat
Wasn’t I the best sailor?

Now you’re standing there by the lantern
Got tears in your face
You take your fire from the candle
Time’s standing still and autumn’s falling

They spoke only about your mother
Only night is so merciless
In the end I stay alone
Time’s standing still
And I am cold

Cold…

Cold…

Steilneset Memorial – Peter Zumthor and Louise Bourgeois

By Karissa Rosenfield Photographed by Andrew Meredith